Menachos Chapter 8, Mishnah 6. From here the Mishnah moves to a new topic: the source of the wine used for the libations in the Beis HaMikdash. The question under discussion is where the grapes from which the wine was produced were brought from.
Where the wine was brought from:
The Mishnah asks: "U'minayin hayu mevi'in es hayayin?" - where were the vineyards from which the wine was taken? And the Mishnah lists the places:
"Keruseim v'HaTulim alfa la'gin" - this is the first ranked place, the ideal location for bringing the wine.
"Sheniyah lah" - the second place in quality, which is also acceptable l'chatchilah: Beis Rimah, Beis Lavan on the mountain, and Kfar Signah in the valley. Beis Lavan refers to Mount Beis Lavan, as well as another Beis Lavan in the mountains, whereas Kfar Signah is located specifically in the lowlands. (Regarding the name "Beis Rimah" there is a variant text in the Gemara.)
"Kol haretzu'os hayu kesheiros" - by the letter of the law the wine could come from anywhere, "ela mikan hayu mevi'in" - but in practice they brought it from these places, which were the most ideal for producing wine.
Places from which one does not bring l'chatchilah:
The Mishnah continues: "Ein mevi'in lo mibeis hazevalim v'lo mibeis hashelachin v'lo mimah shenizra beineihem". Similar to the previous Mishnayos that dealt with oil and fine flour, the Mishnah lists three types of vineyards that are not fit l'chatchilah:
"Beis hazevalim" - vineyards that require manuring and fertilizing. The concern is that perhaps they will not be fertilized properly, and will not produce the ideal result. It is preferable to obtain a place that does not require fertilizing to begin with.
"Beis hashelachin" - fields that are watered by artificial irrigation and are not satisfied by rainwater. Here too the same idea applies: something can go wrong, and it is not ideal.
"Mimah shenizra beineihem" - a vineyard in which additional plants grow alongside the vines, since those plants draw off the nutrients that reach the vines. This does not refer to a situation of kilei hakerem, but goes beyond that: the concern is that not all the nutrients in the field will be available to the vines, and therefore it is not ideal.
"V'im heivi" - but if one did bring wine that came from grapes in one of these scenarios, it is valid b'dieved.
Similarly: "Ein mevi'in aliyuston" - one may not bring wine from grapes that were placed in the sun artificially in order to sweeten them, "v'im heivi" - it is valid. The reason is that such wines are not particularly strong, and therefore are not ideal.
Aged wine:
"Ein mevi'in yashan" - these are the words of Rabbi, "v'chachamim machshirin". Aged wine is wine that is more than twelve months old. In Rabbi's opinion it may not be brought l'chatchilah, whereas the Sages permit it entirely, even l'chatchilah. If the wine has aged excessively, such as in its third or fourth year, it is too old, less ideal and liable to spoil; but when more than forty days have passed, and even in its second year, it is valid l'chatchilah.
Sweet, smoked and cooked wine:
"Ein mevi'in lo masok velo me'ushan velo mevushal" - one may not bring wine that is sweet, smoked or cooked. Wine that comes from sweet grapes, even sweeter than aliyuston, may not be brought, because such sweet grapes produce a sweet wine that is not good and is too weak. Likewise, although some people like to add variety by smoking their wine or cooking it in order to give it flavor, this is considered a defect in the wine. Therefore wine that comes from sweet grapes, as well as cooked or smoked wine, is invalid: "ve'im heivi, pasul" - it is invalid even after the fact.
Daliyos and rogliyos:
"Ein mevi'in min hadaliyos" - ideally, one should not take the wine from grapes that are trained upward, the way vines are grown nowadays. Daliyos refers to a trellis: sticks and posts with a wire between them on which the vine climbs, and likewise when it is spread out above like a kind of canopy. This is not ideal, because the grapes are far from the ground and therefore receive fewer nutrients.
"Ela min harogliyos" - rogliyos are grapes that lie on the ground, as it were at foot level. The idea is that this is how nature intended it, so to speak: there is no artificial scaffolding here enabling the vines to grow, but rather the vines rest on the ground and are close to it, receiving their nutrients from it in the ideal way. This is the ideal that the Mishnah established.
"Umin hakeramim ha'avudim" - the wine must come from vineyards that were worked. What was that work? Twice a year they would dig around the base of each and every vine, so that the water and the nutrients would penetrate deeper into the ground and nourish the vines, enabling them to produce full and flavorful grapes.
In summary: here too, as with the other laws we have learned, all of these are laws of what is done ideally. After the fact, if the field was not worked, or the wine was not brought from the rogliyos that grow on the ground, it is still valid.